Swammelstein Rolls Royce

I want to buy a Silver Shadow

It starts with something like this:

Hi, I'm seriously thinking about buy a Silver Shadow, but I'm not sure how much they cost to keep on the road. The last thing I want is to not be able to keep the car in the condition it deserves. Can some one give me an indication of repairs & parts - ie how much would a new clutch cost (inc fiiting)

And here are lots of answers and advice:

I love this question – it is a theme that every prospective R-R owner labors with, and once such a person becomes an owner, they'll frequently revisit the theme – as a owner – to offer thoughts and experience when asked on how they reached their mix – the criterion of their decision making process. The most important thing to do is to research the car – become familiar with the model. The Silver Shadow was made for fourteen years! The '66 Silver Shadow is quite different from the '80 Silver Shadow II. Just as important is to find where you would have the car serviced – to become familiar with the alternatives in your area. While a surprising number of items could be worked on by the generically trained mechanic and the "weekend mechanic – owner", there are clearly items that only a trained specialist can handle (no matter what they say – a Silver Shadow ain't just like a Jaguar! – etc.) Further, you must have a potential purchase evaluated! Get that specialist to "kick the tires" – pay for the inspection and get an estimate for any neglected maintenance and/or restoration. It'll let you avoid the "shell car" (looks great outside, but is "dying" inside). Of particular interest is the hydraulic system, which controls the breaks and the self-leveling system. Remember this if you remember nothing else: RR363. This is the special fluid for the system – use anything else and the repairs could go into a five-digit figure. Always remember – this doesn't have to be a "beat the system" or an "incredibly optimal" decision. Give weight to your passion and desire for this car – they're works of art! Each takes months to build – think when you see one, think of the weeks and months rolling by as the crew at Crewe labored over your perspective purchase – to make it the best that the realities of this world would allow. I think of that from time to time – makes me feel all the more privileged, as I enjoy every mile my Corniche shows me! All the best!

On the other hand....  However, with water pumps, for example, I got a rebuilt pump from a chap in Oregon (exchange) for $125 - ran like a champ. There are many components that are interchangeable with Jaguar, including oil filters and a number of electrical components. With care and a reasonably good example you should have very little trouble. BUT, be aware that about every 45-50,000 miles you will have a big-time hydraulic service - not just new fluid, but hoses, belts, flushing, possible valves & lots of other stuff to the tune of four figures. I wouldn't trade my six years' custodianship   anything, but she was an expensive mistress (if the mistress fills the bill, the expense doesn't really matter - right?). One of the biggest difficulties in rationalising ownership of these cars - the Shadows - is that as time passes they will become as expensive or moreso to maintain than their forbears. Do-it-yourself maintenance, other than the routine oil change, spark-plug, radiator flush, just isn't on for the average owner. I predict that in ten years, the Shadows will be in the same socio-economic category as Phantom IIIs - relatively cheap to buy, but a rich man's game to maintain. This is not an attempt to provoke controversy - I think the Shadow series are perhaps the best of the best in many ways, but they are complex, and they don't suffer careless owners gladly. Just my opinion, plus six years' experience.

We have a 1972 T-Series with over 200,000 miles, and over the considerable years have seen quite a lot. A Silver Shadow need not be expensive to run, but there are a few pitfalls. Many repair jobs are labour intensive, and some unusual spares are very expensive. Of course, a run-down car will eat your life savings, as will botched repairs. The hydraulics need not be too scary as long as RR363 is used, and overhauled accumulators (about $120 each) and overhauled actuators and the like, provided the old ones are not completely shot, can be bought from many sources at very affordable prices. Of course, costs start from a high base, but with help on specifics from club members many proper solutions exist. I am one person with a very ordinary income, and do not find the running costs particularly high. I do insist on genuine parts, but where the exact part is available from its original manufacturer I don't mind if the box does not say R-R. If you do not use a main dealer, I prefer specialists, like exhaust specialists, auto electricians, transmission specialists (they have ALL overhauled a GM 400 Turbohydramatic !), brake specialists (nothing unusual here)and reserve the oil and filter change to a regular garage as this is absolutely routine. There are usually very professional and knowledgable subsystem specialists around. I am more suspicious of self-named second-tier Rolls-Royce specialists. They often take short cuts, use unsuitable components at R-R prices, and overcharge, where I come from. Sniff an R-R, and they smell money.

Considering modern cars, the Silver Shadows are not looking too complicated these days I might say. Generally they are extremely reliable, but suffer numerous little accessory and electrical wobbles. But watch out for a worn suspension ! To me that is the black hole of the Silver Shadow series.

Spare Parts.

Relatively Cheap:

rear suspension hydraulic hoses for major service, brake pads (same as a Nissan; change the caliper seals each time), brake caliper and master cylinder overhaul (standard seals, and you can have them sleeved with stainless steel to last forever) Fan belts Most hoses (correct hydraulic hoses for brakes and rear levelling should cost no more than $10 each from a brake specialist - you need about 11 for a major service) Power steering hoses, made to order Power steering pump (Saginaw !) Distributor cap (same Lucas part number as a Rover V8) 3-speed auto transmission (it's just a common GM Turbo 400) Spark plugs Starter motor Alternator Battery Headlamps and all bulbs Tyres (I run Bridgestone 215.75x15 at about US$120 each last time. My 3-series BMW tyres cost much more) Overhaul of hydraulic spheres Aircon repairs Hub bearings (from bearing supplier chains) Universal joints (from bearing supplier chains) SU carburettor kits and overhaul

Relatively Moderate.

Hydraulic system components (some are even very cheap, especially as normally only seals need replacing) High pressure hydraulic flexibles Gear selector servo Rat Trap repairs Shock absorber inserts New hydraulic spheres Oil filters Recored radiator Thermostat Hydraulic tappets (aftermarket supplier) Brake discs Replica stainless steel exhaust system from an aftermarket manufacturer with lifetime guarantee

Relatively Expensive

Suspension bushes Suspension damper ("steel wool" bushes) Steering box if shot (but usually only seals are required) Pitman arm (they break!) Final drive unit if shot (but they are extremely reliable) Detroit Joints Rear stub axle overhaul Motor overhaul (!!! watch for blue smoke, oil consumption, leaky weep holes and noises !!!) Cylinder head replacements (if they have been machined more than once) Engine valves All major hardware bits if damaged or broken Winscreen wiper overhaul Rust (if any, especially look to the rear spring supports) Water pump Fan belt idler (but you can replace the bearings as an alternative) Rear main oil seal - seal and housing from a Silver Spirit for no more leaks) Repaint (proper job well over $10,000) Genuine exhausts Manifolds if broken New hubcaps (wheel discs) Body parts Speeding fines

First of all - congratulations! Such a commitment means you've realized a certain standard in yourself - let your choice reflect that standard. I only recently purchased a   Corniche Saloon  which shares much of the mechanics with the Shadows of the same era. Before purchasing, I too went through the exercise you're attempting here. I echo what has been said here - it's what I've heard and read about these automobiles. Keep in mind that this is HARD! Hard because this process, finding a Roller, is a strange mix of emotion and cold practical analytics, given the possible consequences of spending as much as you paid for the automobile to get it up to speed. OK, now, let's set that aside. On the side of cold analytics, here's something to consider - given in no particular order, cognizant that everyone's situation is different, see if they suit some aspect of your endeavor's thinking… 1) To rent a Rolls-Royce could run hundreds of dollars a day. Once I thought of renting a Spur (just to get a "Rolls" feeling) and found that it would have cost over nine hundred a day to rent. So if you were to purchase one and find after a year of operation that it'll run you an astronomical amount to fix (you arrive on what that equation would be), sell it - you're loss would quite possibly be offset by the time you enjoyed it. I've seen adds for Shadows - not running - with all sorts of fatal wounds - selling between five to twelve thousand dollars. Sound cold… I think so too - but it's a perspective. 2) Also consider this (on a more productive tone) - you could get a car loan for a Shadow - but try getting a loan for the repairs to one! Buy good first means search and wait - and when you've got one in front of you - it's so very hard to resist and so very easy to make light of any deficiencies. 3) If you'd like advice, do reach higher, spend more at first - both time and money in research and mechanical inspection and, finally, when it comes time to purchase. keeping in mind, with regards to the purchase, that a high price tag doesn't mean a better car - get it looked at! 4) Lastly, here's how I went about it - perhaps you'll find it useful: Find a mechanic first! I was fortunate to find an operation that cares for all Rolls-Royces - service, restoration, sales - complete dedication. I spoke to the owner - they're usually enthusiasts and will be willing to help - after all, they know you're a potential customer. That's what you want too - a mechanic who you could bring potential purchases to for an evaluation and, when you decide, you could bring your business to as well. In my own case, I was lucky to have purchased my Roller from a dealer - and to spite it was a Rolls dealer, I still took it to my mechanic - who, of all things, recognized the car since he had been servicing it for years. I haven't been an owner for long, but so far so good. Who's an expert? Who could give the best advise? What's the optimal thing to do? I would say to get comfortable with the notion that armed with the best advise - you could find that your experience differs - you get a truly reliable automobile and spend your time thinking about all the alarmist views you got - you may find the reverse or something in-between - which amounts to the realization that there's an unknowable factor that you'll have to be willing to accept - a "leap of faith". I can't be happier - and whatever the future brings, no one can take away the enjoyment I've had and no one need tell me what it feels like to own and drive a Rolls - I know. Because my Roller was originally made for delivery to Switzerland, I don't have any of the service records - in fact, I have none save the years it was in the care of my found mechanic. Establishing that history is my next "project" with the car - as I get into this "hobby" (where all owners seem to know their VIN numbers by heart - at first I thought that strange, but now find I do it myself, as above). I wish you the best of success with your search and would be happy to hear when you make your purchase - do what's right for you!

I own a 1970 shadow, and I can say that it has been a lot of fun since it is still new enough to drive occasionally as a regular car. I agree with the others that you must be very careful when you select your shadow. The most complicated (and sophisticated) hydraulic system ever designed for an automobile is inherent in this cars design. Overhauling the hydraulic system can run $10,000 or more. Early shadows had hydraulic suspension in the front as well as the back, I don't remember if yours was later than this. This front hydraulic suspension was a source of trouble and Rolls Royce had a service bulletin (at least from what I read) to bypass it. If this has been done, the number of problems you might encounter will be reduced a lot. Get the service history if you can, and if you have the luxury have it checked by a dealer before purchase. You may want to get your mechanic (or dealer) to do a compression test on the engine at very least. On the other hand (I believe it was Cal West who said this) a well maintained Shadow is a pleasure to drive.

"I believe the best thing you could do is drive these cars daily. I drive my Corniche every day - it has thus far proved reliable, etc. Things that have come up for repairs have never been things that have left me stranded.

The cost, reliability and maintenance regiment of a Rolls-Royce, sooner or later, becomes a point of discussion - amongst owners, between yourself and anyone you've might have mentioned you own an R-R, etc. Whenever that happens to me, I (fondly) recall the '81 Chrysler Imperial I once owned... in fact, at one point, I had two. They were nice! - in production from '81 to '83 (the only car made at the Ontario Chrysler facilities I believe) ... rather rare car - Mark Cross leather - everything digital - great look - V8 power - etc. It was so rare that in the years that I owned them, people would ask me what kind of car was it - who made it - etc. I kept them running and clean - I was often asked if it was a "new model". Its rarity kept it fresh (only around three thousand made over the three year run).

Only problem was that it had a unique engine management system. No other Chrysler product had it. It had a sensor for everything and a computer to make sense of it all. The sensors, computer and mechanics were either in perfect harmony - or the car didn't run. If you removed the air cleaner cover while the engine was running, the air sensor would be "confused" and the car would stall... it was that sensitive. I lived in New Jersey at the time, there were only TWO Chrysler dealerships in the State that had both, the test equipment and the factory trained mechanics to work on the car (forget your local Texaco!) Fortunately, one of them was less than an hour's drive. Every time the car went in for service (for "failure to proceed") the bill was often more than a grand! It got to the point that Chrysler offered a "conversion package" - which, in effect, dismantled all the electronics and the fuel injection and turned it into a simple carb configuration. (Unfortunately, it would in effect eliminate most of the gadgetry that the car had... not to mention whatever value the car had.) But when they ran - they were great!

Needless to say, I've spent less on my Rolls-Royce - I may have spent comparable amounts on my minivan - I know I've spent more on my Pontiac (even replaced the transmission... at 49K miles!!), though I've had that car longer (etc.) I have driven Cadillacs, Lincolns (various models of each) and various other cars (though never a Ferrari) and I've come to one fundamental conclusion - some cars will give you headaches, some will be surprisingly trouble free, and all ranges in-between, but all will give you trouble if you don't use them regularly. Further, using them regularly, keeps them fit.

Does this all answer the question: is it good to use a Spur (or a Shadow; or a Cloud, etc.) as a daily driver? The answer is yes! These cars are often NOT used regularly by their owners (there's the recipe for disaster) - the logic being: it's a "special occasions" car - Sunday drives, etc.; and: 'keep the mileage low, keeps the value high'. I caught myself thinking this way for the first few weeks of ownership - then, one morning, as I was passing the car by to get into my Pontiac I thought... what, am I crazy?! I have a Rolls-Royce, I'm paying insurance on it... and I'm not using it?? That and the recollection of my "Imperial Pain" got me in that car nearly every day since. And it's great - I look forward to driving to work - I look forward to driving home.

As a final note - I do often hear of people using their R-R's as daily drivers - I know of one gent in Australia that's put nearly a half million km's on his Silver Shadow II doing just that. There will be repairs, there will be all of that - only you could decide if it comes a too dear a premium over other would be daily drivers (I don't believe its been too over what's average) - but I'm sure that the designers at Crewe always intended their customers to drive their R-R's regularly (in fact, note that the owner's manuals give procedures for prepping the car for periods where it won't be used).